To say you’ve had a perfect vacation in Palermo, it’s essential to visit all parts of the city, including Kalsa.
For those who don’t know, Kalsa is one of Palermo’s historic districts, chosen by the Arabs as the residence of the Emir and his ministers. The area developed quickly due to its proximity to the sea and the La Cala port. The district is located between Via Maqueda, Via Vittorio Emanuele, Via Lincoln, and Foro Italico. The name Kalsa, derived from the Arabic “Khalisa,” means “the chosen one.” The neighborhood features small artisan workshops, museums, churches, and many local shops that create a warm and welcoming Arab-Sicilian atmosphere.
Not everyone knows that Paolo Borsellino and Giovanni Falcone, the two Italian magistrates killed by the mafia in the 1992 massacres, were born in this neighborhood.
Kalsa, Palermo: What to Visit
Once you are somewhat familiar with the history of this area, we can explore what there is to visit. Starting from the north, cross Via Vittorio Emanuele and then Via Paternostro. The first notable sight is Piazza della Rivoluzione, located in front of Palazzo Aijutamicristo, a 15th-century building housing the Carriage Museum and the Lapidary Museum. The tour can continue with a visit to the Basilica of the Holy Trinity La Magione, which with its garden is a small 15th-century Arab-Norman oasis.
Don’t miss the path leading to the sea, which takes you directly to Piazza Magione, an open space with lawns and plants, perfect for immersing yourself in the atmosphere of past decay. Continuing, you must visit the Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo, now in ruins. Once you pass the courtyard and fountain, you reach an open-air nave; the roof collapsed long ago and was never rebuilt.
After leaving the church, head to Via Lincoln to see the Botanical Garden of the University of Palermo and the public garden of Villa Giulia. A few minutes on foot brings you to Piazza della Kalsa, the heart of the district, where you’ll find the Church of Santa Teresa.
Kalsa, Palermo: Where to Eat
The area is not only for exploring history and attractions but also for tasting the flavors and aromas of the past. One great option is Friggitoria Chiluzzo, reputed to offer some of the best street food in Palermo. Another excellent choice is the Antica Focacceria San Francesco, established in 1834, still retaining its old-world charm with original cast iron counters, marble floors, and wrought iron tables. Here, you can try the “schiticchio,” a mixed plate of panelle (chickpea fritters), cazzilli (potato croquettes), mini arancini, and crocchè di budino di latte (milk pudding croquettes).
Finally, for a sweet treat, visit Cioccolateria Lorenzo in the heart of the city. It offers a variety of delicious items, and you can enjoy them while seated in a cozy courtyard, owned by a couple who named the shop after their son, Lorenzo.
